Pacuare Lodge.
Costa
Rica is a remarkably beautiful country. After living here for nine
years, the place retains the ability to thrill me with its natural
beauty and abundant wildlife. The beaches of Santa Teresa, the Pacific
views and seasonal electrical storms in Guanacaste, the pristine beauty
of Drakes Bay. Or maybe our habitual haunt of Nativa just before Jaco,
where a brave soul from National Geographic calculated four thousand
crocodiles in the estuary and where the sky is often darkened with
flocks of Red Macaws noisily swarming around the resort. So many
memorable places, yet nothing prepared me for our recent trip on the
Pacuare river. I often joke about the need for a "superlative police" as
much of our modern vocabulary has become hyperbolic and bromide, but
this part of the country might genuinely be the biblical Eden.
The
scenery was breathtaking with verdant jungle, screeching eagles,
sparkling sun-lit waterfalls which poured what appeared to be a billion
shimmering diamonds from on high, we were completely captivated and let
the waters draw us through towering cliffs that officiously guide the
river around their mighty frames. But the serenity of the river was
deceptive and soon the rafting became exhilarating, with crashing waters
pounding
Scylla-like figures and labyrinthine rock passages through which we
battled currents and rowed like madmen. We were so
exhausted by the time we arrived at our destination, the occupants of
our craft looked
like the characters of Gericault's Raft of Medusa.
The
lodge itself is stunning. Built in sympathy and harmony with the
natural environment it is quite a marvel. We were soon installed in the
divine Jaguar Suite whose deck and private pool hang precariously over
the river banks.
In earlier times you would have imagined that the sounds of the roaring river were the laughter and chatter of the river nymphs. Staying at the Pacuare Lodge was a profoundly emotional experience. Ultimate luxury in a primitive, unspoiled environment.
In earlier times you would have imagined that the sounds of the roaring river were the laughter and chatter of the river nymphs. Staying at the Pacuare Lodge was a profoundly emotional experience. Ultimate luxury in a primitive, unspoiled environment.
We had dinner on the lawn beneath a beautiful
starry, night sky canopy, lit only by a sliver of silver moon and a roaring fire beside
the river bank. The lodge has a great wine cellar as well as kitchen.
It
was one of those great moments to be alive. The staff are a joy, with
many of the people whom had taken us along the river during the daytime
working in the restaurant in the evening, giving all an opportunity to
pursue the bonds that were forged on the raging waters.
After our
wonderful gustatory treat, we settled in for one of the best night's
sleeps imaginable, where between the soothing dialogue of the nearby
river and the finest linens on the bed there was the danger of me ending
like Endymion. The return trip the next day was even more exhilarating
with level three and four rapids to regale us.
It was simply the best thirty six hours I've ever spent. Tourism in Costa Rica at its absolute best!
www.pacuarelodge.com
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Casa Capitan. Santa Teresa.
Casa Capitan. Santa Teresa.
We've been visiting Santa Teresa for almost a
decade and stayed in many homes, villas and hotels of varying quality, but
absolutely nothing compares to our latest trip. Casa Capitan is genuinely
Edenic, a place where you can relax and enjoy one of the best beaches in
wonderful Costa Rica. The property has its own enormous sea front where we sat
each evening, sipping cocktails whilst watching a golden, orb-shaped sun slip
over the edge of the world. The property is a labour of love, where the main
house is furnished with expertly chosen pieces, real art and fine fabrics,
whilst the gardens are beautiful, perfectly kept and wholly harmonious with the
surrounding area. There are excellent common areas, swimming pools and balis,
creating a Buridan's Ass type dilemma as to where you wish to spend your hours.
The houses are decorated by the owner with exquisite taste, where extravagantly
cushioned sofa areas beguile the guests into enjoying just one more cocktail,
just one more conversation before bed. At other times we simply enjoyed our own
decks, ones that offered the same level of comfort, and at the end of such
strenuous days we were happy to retire to our bedroom, an abode of rare
refinement and luxury, where sleep was beneath excellent linens on wonderful
mattresses, whilst the bathrooms could well have been the best I've ever
experienced. Utterly divine place.
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